Cayman Islands, Cayman Brac Island

This small island, 90 mi/145 km northeast of Grand Cayman, offers excellent diving and snorkeling and great deep-sea fishing (marlin, wahoo, bluefin and barracuda). It's also the only part of the Cayman Islands with any notable above-water topography: A spine-like wedge of limestone rock runs the length of the island, rising to a height of 140 ft/43 m at the east end, where it drops straight into the sea. (Brac is Gaelic for "bluff.")

"The Brac" has fewer than 1,500 residents and is still unspoiled by development. It's a great place to read, swim, bicycle, watch birds or simply do nothing. If there's a drawback, it's that the Brac has very little beach compared with the other islands, though most hotels maintain a small stretch of sand for their guests. Still, it's the best place in the Caymans to experience the relaxed lifestyle of the Caribbean: Most island residents are happy to sit and chat about most anything. A good place to catch the local gossip is at La Esperanza, an open-air bar and restaurant in Stake Bay, on the north side of the island. If you must do something, stop at the Brac's small museum, which depicts early island life. We thought it was rather nice.

The attractions most visitors are interested in are below the sea, however. The diving on the Brac is top rank, and it always sees fewer divers than Grand Cayman and Little Cayman. In 1996, Cayman Brac gained a new dive site when the National Trust purchased an abandoned Russian frigate and sank it off the northwest coast of the island. If you enjoy seeing sunken ships, this is a great dive as most of the hatch covers have been removed and you can swim inside much of the wreck. The Brac also has its share of pretty reefs and walls, and because it sits very close to Little Cayman, dive operators on the Brac often make the one-hour trip over to the sister island's more dramatic drop-offs when the weather is calm.

Several hiking trails and "pirate caves" can be explored. Our favorites are the Bat Cave and Great Cave, both just off the road that runs along the south shore of the island. Don't get your hopes up about finding treasure in the caves: If there ever was any, it was likely looted long ago. (Persistent types who still want to dig around should be aware that they'll be digging through heaps of bat guano.)

The hiking trails are well-marked and range from easy walks to moderate treks (sturdy shoes are a must). A parrot reserve on the eastern part of the island has a number of trails, including one that takes you through the habitat of the endangered Cayman parrot. An informative sign at the trailhead tells the story of this bird, which is about as close as you'll get to seeing one: Cayman parrots generally hide within the trees. Keep an eye out for them at sunset, when they are most commonly visible. Trail maps are available at the Brac's tourism office and some hotels.